From what I understand about housing Jackson's Chameleons they should be housed in a cage with plenty of ventilation.
here is some information from another site
"Glass tanks should be avoided altogether. First of all they do not permit the proper air circulation needed that screen allows, and chameleons don' quite understand glass. An all screen cage will provide a visual barrier, while with glass chameleons will try to walk through it. This, and the chance that they may see their reflection in the glass will only cause unnecessary stress.
Cage size recommendations vary for single adult Jackson's anywhere from 18" x 18" x 36", 24" x 24" x 36" and up (for all three subspecies), but as a general rule - the bigger the better. As for babies, enclosures should be small enough for the owner to be able to keep a close watch on their health and activities.
Substrate
Many people do not recommend any kind of substrate (the material that goes on the bottom of the cage), other than newspaper or a quality topsoil. It's my personal opinion against both of these for use as a substrate (for indoor use) for the following reasons: newspaper - if you use an automatic misting system, newspaper does not provide proper absorption of the excess water, and newspaper ink can be toxic. In place of this I use paper towels (without print) - A LOT of paper towels - and this needs to be changed frequently. As for the use of topsoil, once again, with a misting system the excess water can lead to bug infestation along with it being more difficult to keep the cage clean. I have also used Spanish moss and Sphagnum moss without any ill effects but only in the Fall/Winter/Spring when natural humidity levels are at their lowest. But be aware, oversaturation of the moss can and will promote bug infestation. Avoid ANY kind of wood chip or sand as a substrate. If your chameleon happens ingest this along with a cricket, worm, etc., this type of substrate can become impacted in their digestive system and kill them. Cage carpet also promotes bug infestation and bacteria, and MUST be constantly cleaned.
Plants
There are many great plants you can use for the decor, as well as for the well being of your chameleon. In general you'll want to use real full-leafed plants which aerate the cage and can decrease the chances for an Upper Respiratory Infection (see Troubles/Illness), as well as provide a means for drinking water droplets, and shelter or refuge. Pothos are very common, and great not only because their vines can grow to great lengths (I have some that are 9 feet long!), but because they are said to have the ability to remove some contaminates from the air. However it is also reported that they are mildly toxic but many chameleon owners have been witness to their chameleons eating this with no side effects. Ficus trees - to start this off, many people feel these are not a good choice due to a white, milky sap that is said to cause eye infections. It is my experience that this sap is only evident when you trim/cut back branches. Whenever I have to do this the chameleons are removed and replaced when this sap has dried. I believe it would also take the chameleon to have to rub their eyes directly on that fresh trimming spot. At some point you may notice brown bumps on the stems or leaves. These are a scale insect that feeds by sucking the nutrients out of the plant. Use an insecticidal soap and rinse thoroughly - also try to avoid soil saturation. If not a bad infestation removing them by hand could eliminate them. Hibiscus plants are colorful and sturdy, but I have found that this is a "seasonal" plant and not always available. Another great plant many people use is the Sheflerra, sometimes labeled as the umbrella tree.
Heat (or lack of)
It's a misconception that all reptiles are heat lovers. Most chameleons cannot tolerate excessive heat and will die if they are subjected to it. Jackson's are no exception. Keep reading for desired temperatures and lighting.
Temperatures
The ideal ambient temperature for a Jackson's is 77° F, not to exceed 80° F during the day with a basking spot of 85° to 90° F. While 90° F might seem high for a basking temp to some, others have reported that some of their Jackson's do quite well with this basking temperature. The best thing you can do is to keep a close on your Jackson's and watch for signs of overheating (gaping, blanched color, etc.). A 10° F temperature drop at night is recommended. They can withstand a cooler nighttime drop into the 50s as long as they can warm up into the 70s again in the daytime, but that would be for continuous outdoor keeping. Some people who house their Jackson's outside have reported that their chameleons can even withstand times of light snowing
Yet another important aspect of temperature is to have a temperature gradient. This means if it is a certain temperature on the top of the cage, the temperature should be cooler as you go downward. This is yet another way for a chameleon to regulate their body temperature.
You should NOT use heat rocks, heat pads, or any other type of heating element other than an incandescent light bulb.
The best and most accurate way to measure the temperature inside your chameleons cage is with a digital temperature gague. There are other dial-type temperature gagues that are for sale at just about every pet store, but I personally don't feel they give you an accurate reading. Some have a black face which would show that it's hotter than it really is (I've tested this) and you can calibrate them by turing the cover, which is not a good thing. I once bought a bunch of these, all the same kind, and every one showed a different temperature at the same time. There are a few differnt kinds of digital temperature gagues, some that show just the temp, some that show the temp and humidity, and some that show the temp, an "outside" temp, and humidity. Both of these that are pictured have a min/max feature so you can see what the highest AND lowest temps and humidity levels were throughout the day. The one that displays an "outside" temp uses an external probe that is great for use under a basking spot. This is probably the easiest way to get an accurate reading under a basking spot. This is because the actual thermometers are encased inside the housing of the unit so it will entrap the heat thus giving a higher reading. The probe in not encased in such and will give you a more accurate reading (I also tested this). The best place that I'm aware of to purchase these digital thermometers/hygrometers (humidity) is Radio Shack.
Humidity
The ideal relative humidity range for Jackson's is 50 to 75%, the latter being better as to recreate their natural environment. In nature the humidity levels are at their highest during the night and can drop to only 50% during the day. This can be accomplished by use of an ultrasonic humidifier, a cool mist humidifier (NOT a warm mist humidifier), misting of the cage plants with a water (spray) bottle or an automatic misting system. Using moss as a substrate might also help in keeping humidity levels up, but be aware of the possible impaction of your chameleon's intestinal tract, and even bug infestation moss can cause. Believe it or not, chameleons receive much of their body fluids through breathing in the humid, moisture-laden air. This keeps them hydrated during times of little rainfall in nature. During a dry season chameleons solely subsist on the night and early morning humid air. This in no way means you should skimp on providing water through spraying or a dripper.
Like the temperature gague, the best way to get an accurate reading is with a digital hygrometer (see Temperatures). With these you'll see the relative humidity at it's lowest and highest throughout the day."
Boy that was a mouth full.
hope that helps a little bit and doesn't scare you away from your pet
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Vivarium Setup
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