Bromeliad Care Sheet from the NYBS--Enjoy

[Groundhog]

BROMELIADS IN YOUR TERRARIUM

Bromeliads are among the most popular plants for terrariums containing herps, and with good reason; they can be beautiful and fascinating. They are also tough--tolerating the antics of our tree frogs, dart frogs, reed frogs and/or small to medium-sized lizards. Many grow in nature as epiphytes (on trees), or as saxicoles (on rocks). As such, they need good air circulation to do well, and some are not good candidates for closed tanks. Neoregelias have become immensely popular with dart frog keepers, for functional as well as aesthetic reasons. But many popular neos (e.g., ‘Fireball’) are near full-sun plants that stretch after a while in tanks. Black Jungle has suggested that guzmanias and vrieseas may be better choices for humid terrariums for two reasons: they tolerate more humidity and do not need as high light levels to maintain good conformation. We agree. Yet with some careful and intelligent planning, it can be easy and rewarding to grow a variety of bromeliads (including many neos) in terrariums. In other words, select the right bromeliads for your habitat--and not try to bend your habitat to the “nicest” bromeliad.

Planting: Whether your tank is open, partially screened or closed, all bromeliads need a friable mix that drains well. They are not good candidates for the very wet substrates suitable for Cryptocorynes or Anubias. We agree with the latest consensus, and recommend a mix of coconut coir and a soil amendment such as tree fern fiber and/or seedling orchid bark (but not perlite) to loosen the mix. Do not use potting soil; it quickly packs down, hinders aeration and eventually degrades in a closed, warm environment. (And do not use charcoal—it accomplishes nothing.) If your tank is wet, try “mounding” or “false-planting.” Simply plant the pup in a small clay pot (bromeliads do not have large root systems) and place the pot on top of the substrate; this can easily be hidden with cork or other decor.

Mounting: For true epiphytes, the two best mounting media are cork bark or tree fern slabs. Young tank bromeliads (Guzmanias, Vrieseas, and Neos) can be tied to their mounts with monofilament line. Sphagnum moss is usually not necessary, although neos do seem to stay smaller without it. If the plant has a stolon (a basal stem), just shove the stolon into the mount. Many tillandsias can be attached with a waterproof glue; we use and recommend Liquid Nails (remove any animals from the tank for a few hours while working with any glue). Check out the Black Jungle website (Poison Dart Frogs Poison Arrow Frogs Dart Frogs & Exotic Tropical and Carnivorous Plants with Terrarium & Vivarium Supplies by Black Jungle Terrarium Supply) for a slide show on mounting epiphytes.

Lighting: Most of these plants will fare well with at least two full-spectrum fluorescent tubes running the length of the tank. “Power compact” bulbs with a color temperature range of 5000-6700K provide an intense lighting that can stimulate some sun-lovers to grow better if grown closer to the lights. As a general rule, plants grown under brighter light need more moisture and will tolerate more humidity. This is an area that merits further investigation and experimentation--from all of us!


A Warning: In any terrarium containing animals it is crucial to use a fertilizer that is animal-safe; we recommend Dyna-Gro or Dyna-Bloom. As there are no drainage holes in a terrarium, fertilizer should be used sparingly and at reduced strength. It is best not to foliar-feed neos, as it can cause their leaf markings to fade. (Both formulas are available at Black Jungle.)

The following is a selection of bromeliads known to grow well in terrariums, with some cultural tips. These plants have been tested by many hobbyists in tanks with animals. As a rule, it is best to start with large pups or offsets; the “finished” plants that are often available at outlets like Home Depot usually do not acclimate well to a terrarium (this may be why guzmanias and vrieseas get an undeserved reputation as tricky terrarium plants).

If you are unfamiliar with any species or variety, most can be seen at Bromeliad Encyclopedia - Florida Council of Bromeliad Societies

Terrestrial Bromeliads:
Cryptanthus sp: The “earth stars” are great foreground plants in any terrarium. Cryptanthus are true terrestrials, and will not grow mounted as epiphytes (any you may see mounted are living off their reserves). C. bivitattus, ‘Cafe au Lait,’ and ‘Ruby’ form small to medium-sized rosettes. ‘Black Mystic’ grows well, but can get 8-10” across; C. beuckeri is a more upright form that does well under moderate light.
Guzmania sp: While these usually grow as epiphytes in nature, they do enjoy some moisture and can thrive with a well drained substrate. G. lingulata v. minor and cultivars like ‘Trinidad’ are known to perform well. G. ‘Theresa,’ is a cute miniature cultivar barely 4” tall. Two new hybrids are G. ‘Charlene’ and G. ‘Mini Jewel,’ both which mature at 10” to the top of the inflorescence. Of course, some of these smaller forms are also suitable for mounting in humid tanks.

Epiphytic Bromeliads:
Neoregelia sp: Many can do well in tanks with some ventilation and bright light. Neos grown in closed, dimly-lit terrariums will etiolate (stretch) after a period of time. Some smaller decorative varieties include Neo. ampullacea and its cultivars, N. dungsiana, N. liliputiana and N. roethii. With brighter lights, one can try ‘Alley Cat,’ ‘Cheers,’ ‘June Night’ or ‘Red Waif.’ For dart frog keepers, some of the more robust (but not huge) varieties, such as ‘Alley Cat,’ ‘Pepper,’ ‘Spotted Frog’ and ‘Tigrina’ can hold water. Many of these can easily be mounted up near the lights via their stolons.
Tillandsia sp: If you have a closed terrarium, it is easier to grow the softer, green-leaved forms. Some vigorous ones include T. bulbosa, T. filifolia and the soft form of T. stricta. T. punctulata is a larger green plant that can grow well “mounded” (see above), but it does not like excessive heat. In more open tanks, good varieties include T. caput-medusae, T. funckiana, the hard-leaf form of T.stricta and T. tricolor melanocrater. Tillandsia ionantha and T. neglecta can usually go either way. Whatever your setup, they all need to drain well.
Vriesea sp: There are some smaller forms that do well in terrariums--but if you mount these, the height of their flower spikes need be taken into consideration. Some good small forms include V. carinata, V. bleherae, V. flammea, V. ‘Cardinalis,’ V. ‘Carly’ and V. ‘Julie.’ Vrisea racinae is a lovely small rosette that likes bright light and hates wet feet, so mount it like a neo in a ventilated tank, up near the lights. There is now a Vriesea splendens ‘Mini’ (only 12” tall) that seems promising for larger tanks.

Maintenance: In open tanks, epiphytes should be sprayed daily in summer, 2-3X a week in winter. Plants grown in covered tanks should, of course, be sprayed less oftenCbut spray at least weekly, if only to flush out their cups. Note: As bromeliads are sensitive to chlorine and fluoride, it is best to use aged water; if your water is hard, use bottled water. Bromeliads appreciate humidity levels between 50-80 percent, which is fine with many tropical herps. Careful observation should tell you if/when plants need water; a good hygrometer will tell you the humidity level. Remember, all of the listed bromeliads can grow well in terrariums, as long as they are not water-logged.

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Compliments of The New York Bromeliad Society. We meet the first Tuesday of each month (except July, August and September) at Ripley-Grier Studios, 520 Eighth Avenue (between 36th and 37th Streets). Meetings begin promptly at 7 P.M. Programs include slide presentations, demonstrations on all aspects of culture, a holiday party and auction, and more. Guests are always welcome!

See us at Welcome to the New York Bromeliad Society

[Layna]

Thanks for the post. With me being only a beginner, I don't know much about plants, this helps a lot.