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07-28-2008, 09:55 AM
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 14
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Not Watertight Building
I don't think the environment needs to be water tight if I'm not keeping water in it right?
I've seen some mesh cages for lizards, so I have an idea for an approx 40 gal enclosure that has the option of being disassembled for easy transport later.
My idea is just as much for stability and usage as it is for transportability. I don't plan on moving it more than once or twice. Just like anyone here I'm sure.
I also believe I can build a 40 gal out of plexi-glass and wood cheaper and it will be to my dimensions not some cookie cutter design for fish keepers.
Anyone else tried this approach?
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07-28-2008, 11:08 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 360
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Screen tanks are normally only reserved for Chameleons or another lizards with very demanding circulatory needs, or in more tropical climates an outdoor sunning box. As for building the tank out of wood and plexi i have built quite a few over the years and one that we could tear down and build back up if needed, harder said then done im afraid but ony cost about 100$ for a 120g 24x24x48. Maybe i should of asked what your going to keep in it first off, maybe my design would work for you or i could tweek it abit.
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07-28-2008, 11:33 AM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lake Stevens, WA
Posts: 2,245
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The issue with using water tight construction is three-fold. First, do you need water in the enclosure? If you don't need water, or you can get away with a water DISH, then that is not a worry. Second, do you need high humidity? If you do, any cracks are going to reduce the humidity in the enclosure. If you don't, or you want to mist more often, then again, it would not be an issue. Third, and IMO most important, is: Do you plan to plant plants in the tank, and if so, what kind and how much watering will they need? If you are planting ANY plants (other than perhaps cacti or air plants), they are going to need to be watered, so at least the BOTTOM needs to be water tight, otherwise you are going to either have rotten wood (if you build with wood) or you are going to have leaky plexi. I am building my CWD tank (not the size I wasnted, but it will do for quite a while) out of wood and plexi (I will be using the two long panes of glass from his current glass tank as doors though, just because plexi scratches easily, and I wont have to BUY doors). I am using the plexi in the bottom so that I don't have to track down the marine epoxy (or equivalent) to waterproof the bottom. I chose to use plexi instead of just adding to the height of his current tank for two reasons. One, I could drill the bottom easily to put in a sump, and two, I could make the dimensions what I wanted (I chose to make it deeper than his current tank, 36"x30"x48". The old tank was 36"x18"x17".). Even if you DO need the tank to be waterPROOF, you CAN still build out of wood, you just need to seal the wood with a pet safe two part epoxy paint. Or, you can line the bottom with plexi and seal the rest of the wood with something that will keep the humidity from damaging the wood, and still be safe for the pet. I am covering all the inner wooden surfaces with foam (GS and foam insulation to make some nice rocks for him to sit on), which is waterproof in and of itself, but I am painting the inside with a coat of original Kilz, which should be perfectly fine underneath the GS, and even so should be fine once cured as long as he doesn't eat any of it (which wont be possible, since it will not be exposed). Another good thing about wood is that it will keep in heat better than glass will. Plexi should also be more efficient at trapping heat than glass. Jason is right though, it will all come down to what you are keeping in the tank. Ease for you is great, but you have to plan the enclosure around the animal. Hope that helps!
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07-28-2008, 06:14 PM
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 14
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Cali-King is what I have. I just don't see the point in a big fish tank, if I don't need it to be watertight.
I think I can get the convex front if I use a router for my wood frame. Those really jump up in price if it is an aquarium. I hadn't really thought of how exactly I would finish the wood though.
I do not want live plants. I think they will cause me more trouble than I'm willing to deal with right now.
Last edited by preacher : 07-28-2008 at 06:22 PM.
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07-28-2008, 07:16 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lake Stevens, WA
Posts: 2,245
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For snake, I think it is definitely better to go with fake plants, less risk of belly rot or bugs. So yeah, you should be perfectly fine building it that way! Make sure you don't use pine (for the frame or the bedding), since it's toxic. I never even thought to do a bowfront with plexi! That's a great idea. Make sure you post lots of pics when you get started!
__________________
1.1.0 cats: Isaac & Soot
0.1.0 Polypedates leucomystax: Joe
1.1.0 Bombina orientalis: Starvin' Marvin & Aphrodite
0.0.1 Taricha granulosa: Saphira
0.0.1 Physignathus cocincinus: Rikutu
1.1.0 parakeets
0.1.0 Miniature Schnauzer: Sasha
1.0.0 Python regius: Graham
1.0.0 Pogona vitticeps: Franky
1.0.0 Elaphe guttata guttata: Masquerade
RIP: Riku, Brutus, Brick, Herman, & Sleepy.
A Place to Share Your Love of Herps!
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