120g Viv Project Need a Little Help

thriftyaaamom · #1 (**permalink**) 09-09-2008, 05:44 PM

I have been lurking for sometime, and have loved what others are doing with their vivs. I have been inspired to create a more realistic habitat for our two CWDs (Chinese Water Dragons). I recently acquired a 120g Vertical tank 24"x24"x48" for a song compared to the cost new! Before anyone starts in on me I realize this isn't large enough for fully mature CWDs, ours are juveniles, and we should be moving somewhere more permanent in a year or so, so this is better then their current living quarters, a 36"x16"x16" tank. When we do move I will be building them a larger home until then this should help take advantage of their semi arboreal nature.

As I said I have been lurking and doing my research and have almost all my materials ready, except I have yet to figure out the plumbing for the filter and water feature. I think my best bet is a sump but I have little knowledge of these systems and have a couple of questions. How large does the sump have to be. I will be using it as intake for our ZooMed 501 canister filter as well as the submersible heater. The water volume I am anticipating would be 15g this is based on a false bottom with a water height of 6", I would like the pool to be deeper however there is a screen 7" from the bottom of the tank on one side, which I will be replacing with plexi doors, so I am limited to that depth.

I was planning on building a three sided glass box (four sided if you include the bottom) and attaching it to the lower back of the tank. Something along the lines of 12"x4"x7" would this be suitable, please correct me if not. Here is a pic along the same lines of what I would like to do:

Any input would be appreciated!

thriftyaaamom · #2 (**permalink**) 09-11-2008, 03:40 PM

I have now scrapped the idea for a sump. Glass shop won't cut an existing tank, and I am too chicken to try it. I have decided to fill the screened area with glass doors, one door will have cut outs for plumbing and access to the heater and plumbing. Holes can be cut at my shop on flat planes of glass. Still not sure how to do the door assembly thou, but it shouldn't be too hard.

I will be using GS (Great Stuff) Foam over the styrene sheet so I am able to work on this outside of the tank, and then attach the background with silicon when complete. (Don't worry I will be taking the plastic coating off the styrene before applying the GS.)

I will be painting the exterior of the tank to hide any uglies when interior is complete.

That is all for now but I will try to keep a photo log for any and all interested.

froggsong · #3 (**permalink**) 09-11-2008, 04:25 PM

You could also apply GS to some eggcrate, it may stick better that way... Even removing the plastic coating, it may not be rough enough for the GS to stick properly. It may eventually detach is what I mean.

thriftyaaamom · #4 (**permalink**) 09-11-2008, 07:48 PM

Thanks Meghan yes I did rethink this and ran to HD this afternoon to purchase another piece of Eggcrate. At least now I have a good template from which to cut the eggcrate!

thriftyaaamom · #5 (**permalink**) 09-11-2008, 07:53 PM

I also picked up some quikcrete and colouring for the waterfall and for ledges I plan to sculpt into the GS. As I know this will get CWD foot traffic and I would like it to standup to our guys! Just waiting on my cypress driftwood before I start foaming.

frostycold1 · #6 (**permalink**) 09-11-2008, 08:50 PM

I just did the great stuff foam over the eggcrate idea. I found out that when the foam shrinks it warps the eggcrate. So now it's bowed and I have to silicone it to the glass to flatten it out. Either that or I am going to foam in the gaps that are left at the top form the bowing. I had hoped to just slide the background in and out. That plan i out now.
Just something to think about. To see what I'm talking about check out my 55 gal build journal.

Tiamat · #7 (**permalink**) 09-11-2008, 08:52 PM

for GS to stick on foam boards, just pin some toothpics in the foam. like that, when you spray the GS, it won't slide off.

froggsong · #8 (**permalink**) 09-12-2008, 01:18 AM

Good idea Tiamat! Frosty, that really sucks that it didn't turn out the way you wanted it to...

However, in my experience, the GS only shrinks when you do not let it cure fully before carving it. If you have a thinner layer, it needs to cure at least 24 hours before carving to avoid shrinkage, and if you have a THICK layer, it needs closer to 48 (possibly longer if it is VERY thick). The cure time on the can isn't as accurate as it should be, but you have to keep in mind that it isn't meant to be applied the way we are using it. I hope that helps both you and the OP, for now and in the future.

thriftyaaamom · #9 (**permalink**) 09-12-2008, 01:58 AM

Thanks for the heads up Frosty. I don't mind having to silicon the eggcrate to the tank, I am only doing it this way as I wanted to have better control than to have to stick my arm 4' into the tank to spray the foam. Plus this tank is heavy, the less I move it the better!

thriftyaaamom · #10 (**permalink**) 09-12-2008, 02:02 AM

Does anyone have any experience with quikcrete and how heavy it will make the background? I want to build the water feature as well as ledges to cover with the cement. I understand that you apply very thin layers for the first few coats. I was going to place foamcore board into the eggcrate and GS foam over it. Will the concrete be too heavy at the higher levels?