Here is a quote I want to provide:
Here are few key points and concerns regarding quarantine practices.
Every single frog acquired should go through a full quarantine. I don't care who you get your frogs from. If you get a frog from me, quarantine the frog. I don't care if you get the frog from the most "reputable breeder" you can name, whomever that may be. I am not naming names, but the very most diseased frogs I have ever tested came from one of the biggest names in the hobby. He would certainly rank right up there on the top ten best known/"most reputable" list.
We quarantine for a number of reasons. Quite possibly the most important reason is to test the frogs to understand their state of health. Once a frog has been placed in-viv, every single worm, protozoa , and /or anything else it is carrying has now permanently diseased the viv. Most all 'stuff' does not simply go away on it's own. Quite the opposite. If a frog has hookworms (which are zoonotic BTW, nasty and zoonitic) it keeps pumping out these worms in it's own poop and sits in it, stands in it, infects and other frogs in the viv, and basically keeps building up disease.
How do we make sure we are not infecting our band new beautiful vivs with all sorts of nasties? We quarantine.
Once I receive a frog I place it in a 190 0z round, clear tub . I get mine from Josh (Josh's Frogs). I place about four sheets of paper towels in the bottom and moisten them. Plants and hide spots , like film cans, go in to make the frog comfortable. After the frog has pooped (paper towels make it easy to find poop) I collect about three-four 'logs' and send them overnight or two day to my brother for a fecal exam. A fecal exam can find things such as coccidia (and other 'safe' protozoa) , hookworms, lungworms, tapeworms, and other parasites which can cause the frogs problems. If the first fecal comes back clean I send out another load to be tested in another couple weeks. I repeat the process until I get three consecutive clean fecals. The reasoning behind this is due to the fact that a frog may not be shedding a parasite constantly. If the frog has lower levels and is not stressed a parasite may not show up in a single fecal. Three clean tests in a row is a safe practise.
In this day and age testing for Chytrid may also be an important step if you have acquired wild caught ( or what some are mislabeling "Farm Raised" , ha freakin' ha) frogs. It may also be a good idea to test for Chytrid if you have acquired captive bred, depending on who you got the frog from, and that particular breeder's own quarantine and testing procedures. Cytrid is a bit more wide spread than some may think.
After my frog has passed the three clean fecal phase ( fecals which test positive for worms are usually treated with Panacur. Coccidia is un-curable in darts, but can be treated. Coccidia will however permanently contaminate a viv, so anything in that viv will have coccidia) and I know it has been eating fine, I can then place it in-viv. A properly quarantined frog will take a minimum of six weeks to go through the full procedure. Frogs which have not been tested are frogs which the state of their health is uncertain. Anyone who tells you they can simply look at a frog (for no matter what length of time ) and ascertain the frog's full state of health is incorrect.
Does anyone disagree or do there quarantine procedure differently?
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