bare minimum requirements:
- tank
- UTH (under-tank heater) * i
highly recommend getting this. leopard geckos need belly heat to properly digest their food. you can get away with using an over-head light heating a tile floor, but the UTH is much more reliable & consistent.
- digital thermometer with probe to monitor floor temps.
- rheostat, thermostat, or dimmer for UTH. * again, i
highly recommend this. you need a way to control the amount of heat or you could end up burning your pet.
- daylight bulb on timer or turned on/off at consistent times giving consistent day/night schedule
- 3 hides (one on warm side, one on cool side, & a humid hide on the warm side).
- water dish
- calcium powder/food dish
- calcium powder w/ vitamin D3
- pure calcium powder
- some sort of substrate (can be as simple as paper towels, or repti-carpet, tile, slate, shelf liner, grout floor)
additional optional components:
- night time viewing bulb (red)
- reptovite reptile multi-vitamin
- tank decor
- tank cleaning products (wipe out)
as you said that you have read many care sheets i'm assuming you know the basics i.e. offering a temperature gradient by only heating half the viv. a side note about the rheostat, thermostat, or dimmer is a thermostat, though being minutely accurate & having things like night-time temp drops, are very expensive ($100 or more) & usually mostly for ppl who have many geckos. rheostats are more affordable (~$25) but are far less accurate & are basically just a dimmer. if you have any wiring knowledge you could wire your own dimmer (i.e.
rotary push dimmer) for far less money. also, you could be as cheap & utilitarian as possible by using paper towels as substrate, and turned over empty pastic containers for hides:
a very good thread to get ideas of how to set up leo tanks:
show off your cages
good luck! they are awesome, fun pets-