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  #31  
Unread 07-28-2010, 03:43 PM
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it shouldn't.
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kill the python, boa and anaconda ban

1.0.0 columbian red-tail boa - p.j.! 55 gal planted fish tank 0.0.3 hermit crabs

like dart frogs? sign up on dartfrogz.com and be sure to put leapinglizard in the referral box.

http://www.kill-rulechange.com/
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  #32  
Unread 08-24-2011, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisXXXMendez View Post
I plan to go the grout way also and would like to know if it has to be soaked in vinegar/water like concrete does.
The froggie people think it does need to be soaked. The gecko people do not.


Quick crete? Or grout? - Dendroboard


Has anyone tried drylock?
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  #33  
Unread 08-24-2011, 07:46 PM
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from Curing concrete – Dendroboard | All About Indoor/Outdoor Speakers
Quote:
Yes unfortunately the grout should be cured as well. it is basically a concrete product and because the tank environment is very moist and humid, your grout / concrete will continue to hydrate or cure for a period of time, whether you have a water feature or not.

When cement / concrete is “curing” it is actually absorbing water molecules, ie. hydrating. After about 28 days in a moist environment it will be mostly finished hydrating or curing (cement actually keeps hydrating VERY slowly for an indefinite period). As concrete and grout hydrates they release calcium oxide and calcium hydroxide which are two forms of kalkwasser. The leaching out of these by products are the main cause of the high pH swings which will end up overdosing your tank which is likely to kill your plants and animals. The kalkwasser will leach out whether you have a water feature or not.

Sorry that is not what you want to hear, but knowing should prevent you from losing plants and animals. That is if you properly cure the grout.

All the vinegar does is lower the pH on the grout’s surface, it does not stop the curing, speed up the curing, or eliminate the need for curing.
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  #34  
Unread 08-24-2011, 07:47 PM
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I looked all over town for permastone, thinking its a great choice for a damp but not really WET tank (I'm doing a mourning gecko tank) but cannot find any. I think by the time i get it shipped and pay for shipping, I might as well cure the grout.
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  #35  
Unread 08-24-2011, 10:12 PM
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That's what I did

Edit, I canceled my unshipped permastone order and used ultraflex 2 and am starting a soak tomorrow
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  #36  
Unread 08-24-2011, 10:22 PM
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If I was building a palu, as opposed to a drier viv, I'd not use permastone either!!
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  #37  
Unread 12-23-2012, 06:51 PM
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Beautiful!
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  #38  
Unread 01-21-2013, 11:25 AM
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Hello,

that's my first post here. (I hope not the stupidest)

The idea of making a paludarium is sticked in my head some weeks ago. Since then I'm visiting aquarium suppliers and sites all over the internet to see how I will be able to make it, as I have no idea. Finally it seems that is not so easy as i thought and there are many issues to consider (mostly the chemistry part scares me)
Anyway…

I 'm in love with your rock mate! well done, I admire and appreciate hand crafting and thats a piece of art.

I have one question.

The inside part of the "rock" has the foam, isn't danger of fungus/bacteria etc from the constant wet foam?

Sorry for my poor english.

Thank you in advance!
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  #39  
Unread 12-24-2013, 06:56 PM
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I am new here and been doing a lot of reading on all subject's of building and making a cage. I see lot's of people asking what to use to seal there build's. a guy from Lizard Landscapes uses a product called Sheild's All for his rock features in a moist area and anything under water he rub's it all down with Silicone to seal it. Only thing it leave's the area shiny.... When he uses the Shield's All on the last coat he sprinkle's sand on area's to help dull it back and also for traction and grip for your animal's. Im building a case for a Chameleon but have not posted it yet. Im not sure if Im going to use a product called Dryloc to go over the foam to seal it then maybe paint with Acrylic then seal again with the Shield's All to seal again. My case is all wood so i have to be careful of leak's. Im wanting to use live plant's and water feature but am leaning towards just a mist system and just a clean painted surface on the floor for easy clean up. I have installed a drain and used a membrane in the floor using thinset ultra flex over the membrane. I will probably use a cool mist fogger to keep the humidity up. I see people going both way's on screened or glass for the Chameleon.I figure it will be tough to keep the temp and humidity up in the summer with the AC going so that is why Im not going with a whole screened case. I cut the top out and it will get screen and the door glass was broke from my nephew's playing. it's a shame the case is an old China cabinet with curved glass. The door glass a lone to replace is about 180 buck's.So it will get a piece of salvaged glass from the original piece that was broke which I got 14 inch of it that will go at the top and the rest will be The thin perforated ornamental metal you see in screened doors at the bottom to keep your pet from going through the door. It will bend easy to the shape I need. I will start a thread on the build soon. Sorry to hijack the thread ,but hope the info on sealing will help. Sneak peeK Dave PS just realised thread is sort of old.
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File Type: jpg Photo254 antique china cabinet.jpg (252.2 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg Photo281 cabinet rock.jpg (363.5 KB, 3 views)

Last edited by unclecrash; 12-24-2013 at 07:10 PM..
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