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  #11  
Old 04-13-2010, 09:33 AM
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I wonder whether something like this might be easiest: just using a few of the L brackets, but with a little bend at the end of them to hold the thing in place. I wouldn't have to screw anything into the box that way. I could just slide the whole thing in from the side (if I needed to take it out for whatever reason), and if I got the right brackets it'd just look like a little steel trim or something. Here's the idea- looking at it from the side, the black is the wall and the brackets are grey:



I'm also seriously considering attaching it to a nearby door so that I don't have to fuss with the wall. Do you think the extra weight would be too hard on the hinges?
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:58 AM
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i think the channel brackets are a great idea. similar to mounting a mirror...

the weight vs. the hinges would be individual to the door itself. being a contractor in my past life i tend to lean towards not hanging things on doors. not because of the hinges necessarily (but sometimes that too), but more because of a slow lean in the structure that eventually dis-aligns the striker and the keeper so the door won't stay shut on it's own. i don't think it's a bad idea, but you may have to put screws in the door jamb that bite into the actual framing on the side where the hinges are. at least 3" screws would be recommended but might be somewhat unsightly. as an alternative you may be able to remove the screws from the hinges themselves and replace them with longer screws that'll bit into the frame behind the jamb. doing them one at a time should ensure that you don't have to remove and re-hang the door.
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  #13  
Old 04-13-2010, 10:02 AM
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ehem... "J" channel or "J" brackets...
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  #14  
Old 04-13-2010, 10:09 AM
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Ah, the whole house is crooked as hell already, and the door barely stays shut as it is. It's likely a solid wood door (I can't remember specifically, but if it's anything like the others in the house), and I guess if the hinges have been holding it up for this long... it's just a closet behind it, so the door's not even moving that much.

J brackets- of course!
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Old 04-13-2010, 10:23 AM
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sooo... if the striker (shoots out of the door when you turn the handle) sits near the bottom of the keeper you'll want to do the following...

grab a piece of wood like a foot long 2x4 and a hammer. open the door and place your 2x4 near the top of the jamb and hit that beast like you mean it, close the door and open it a few times. repeat the process until it latches correctly. if the door's already heavy, definitely replace the screws in the hinges with longer screws... but do that after you have everything lined up as the old screws that have moved will be easier to move and you don't want the new ones moving and bothering your structural integrity. i would NOT change out the screws that go into the door slab, just the ones into the wall/jamb.
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  #16  
Old 01-04-2011, 07:28 PM
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I'm aware that this is an older thread, and you've probably already mounted your drip wall, but I've run into this situation on other projects, and this may help.

I would strongly recommend using a 'french cleat'. One wedge is attached directly to the wall with screws and anchors, the other is attached to the back of your drip wall. Add a small block to the back of the drip wall near the bottom so that it will hang vertically against the wall. Then you can just lift the drip wall into place and it will hang securely. It is also easily removed, with damaging the wall.

If you aren't familiar with this kind of cleat, here is a link I quickly googledCleat | New To Woodworking that explains it better. It's relatively quick and easy.

Hope it helps.

Last edited by Brett; 01-04-2011 at 07:34 PM..
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