GRIMM's Vivarium Build #2 - Page 10

Grimm · #91 (**permalink**) 05-27-2010, 10:52 AM

Yeah Froggy your probably right. I did add water to the mixture to make it easier to stick to the foam so thats probably what did it. I was having trouble getting the plaster to stick to the foam, and not my gloves. (even though everything was roughed up)

I think a good future tip to anyone trying this method would be to cut a small 1/2" deep "slit" into the foam about an inch away from the glass. Then instead of completely covering the background on the first layer, just go until you reach the "slit". This way it wont reduce the integrity of the bond between the siliconed glass, and the foam, as the plaster shinks. Then one the 2nd layer, complete the 1" sections that were left bare. A 1" section definately wont shink enough to pull the foam away any significant amount.

herp35 · #92 (**permalink**) 05-27-2010, 02:08 PM

Grimm, where did you get the Titebond idea? Do you have a link?

Grimm · #93 (**permalink**) 05-27-2010, 02:42 PM

FrogSong gave it to me...Why would you need a link if all the info is in this thread lol?

NewNewtGuy · #94 (**permalink**) 05-28-2010, 02:16 PM

Does the tightbond dry clear or is it more like the color of GS? With that said is it going to bond as well to the GS if i paint it first?

Grimm · #95 (**permalink**) 05-28-2010, 02:26 PM

It dries completely clear. Are you just using it by itself to make your gs water tight, or are you trying to cover up the paint job? It sticks much better to a rougher surface so if you are covering the paint up I would use some sandpaper first. If you are using it as a sealer I would use something else, this stuff is expensive!

froggsong · #96 (**permalink**) 05-29-2010, 01:04 PM

When using this method, the color doesn't matter, as it is the color of what you mix INTO the glue that will determine the finished color... I definitely agree with Grimm, this stuff is EXPENSIVE!!!

NewNewtGuy · #97 (**permalink**) 06-02-2010, 01:29 AM

I Am just trying to make a land portion for my newt tank that sits at the water level. this would mean that the whole bottom will be submerged with a small (about 6"x6") land section on top. And thanks froggsong I never even thought of adding paint to the tightbond itself. I think i will try that.

Grimm · #98 (**permalink**) 06-02-2010, 01:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewNewtGuy

I Am just trying to make a land portion for my newt tank that sits at the water level. this would mean that the whole bottom will be submerged with a small (about 6"x6") land section on top. And thanks froggsong I never even thought of adding paint to the tightbond itself. I think i will try that.

I dont think that is what she meant by that...She meens that the finish colour will be the colour of the co-co, peat moss, sand, or substrate mixed into the glue. If you want to use paint, then paint your background. Then once you are completed and satisfied with it, use a sealer. It will be much cheaper this way and you wont be stuck with one solid paint colour.

The main reason for using Titebond is if you want a natural background using a substrate that will resist the test of time, and water. Its much to expensive to just used as a sealer ontop of something that does not require something to hold it in place.

froggsong · #99 (**permalink**) 06-02-2010, 11:12 AM

What Grimm said.

FwoGiZ · #**100** (**permalink**) 06-22-2010, 02:19 PM

I just bought a 18L 230$ jug of Titebond III

I already made a background with it, and I REALLY like the look of it.
Grimm, I noticed you made some of the background that would completely be submerged, how has this passed the test of time? The guy selling me the glue kept telling me that this couldn't be submerged, but it was waterproof (against the rain for say)

for sealer, you should use epoxy such as West System (USA) or Nu-Lustre 55 (CAN)