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04-23-2011, 12:15 PM
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Vive Newbie
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4
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Advice on Wooden Vivarium
Hi all,
So my fiance has talked about a crested gecko she once had for three years since I've known her. As an anniversary gift I want to get her a new one and build a naturalistic vivarium for it to live in.
I've been doing some research here and there over the past month and think I have a reasonable grasp on what to do, but I haven't found much information on wooden vivariums. I would like to build a 3'x2.5'x3' wood framed naturalistic vivarium with screened sides and glass windowed front doors. Pretty similar in style to the terrariums sold by Exo Terra. From my research I like the look of the styrofoam backgrounds coated in cement the best. I plan on putting a waterfall and misting system (Exo Terra Monsoon RS400) in as well.
So if anyone has ever built a wooden vivarium before any advice would be extremely appreciated. I read that crested geckos require a moist and humid environment. Would my idea of having screened sides to get air flow through the habitat be capable of achieving the required moisture levels? I was hoping the two watering systems live plants would help this.
Questions I have:
- Non-toxic methods of water proofing the false bottom? As well as non-toxic water proofing wood treatments for the framing?
- I was planning on making an enclosed lighting fixture. I read vitamin D is important but want to avoid heating to much. So planned on using a UV light (for daytime) and a red light (for night viewing). Does this seem appropriate?
- Is the cement toxic? If so how do I avoid this?
- Paints to use? Are these toxic?
Right now I really just want to get my plans for the enclosure itself down. I'm sure I'll be posting later on ideas for plants, substrate, and climbing logs, etc. If you notice something I haven't accounted for in the construction process please let me know. All the advice given is appreciated thank you in advance.
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04-23-2011, 05:35 PM
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Chasing Crickets
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Middletown, OH
Posts: 35
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i've kept crested geckos before and they need more air circulation than humidity, too much humidity will give them respiratory infections.
- what will the false bottom be made of? i've built wooden vivs before and I seal them with polyurethane, and I usually stain it, but you don't have to. just be sure that you do not use pine or cedar, they are toxic to reptiles.
-when you use cement, you have to soak it in water and vinegar for 2 weeks, changing the water periodically or it can be toxic in water(Ive never used cement for cages before, so I don't know what it would do in a crestie setup). When i make styrofoam rocks for cages I use several layers of non-sanded grout(sanded grout works too), then you just have to seal it with a nontoxic sealant (mod podge works, as long as it says food safe on it.)
-you can use acrylic paints, if you use cement, you have to stain the cement with it so it wont run, but if you paint on anything else, you will have to seal it. acrylic paint is nontoxic
good luck with the viv! 
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04-23-2011, 06:49 PM
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Vive Newbie
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4
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Hi Quack
When you say soak the cement for two weeks you mean after its been applied to the styrofoam right? Thanks for the advice especially the bit on avoiding pine and cedar (I was looking at lumber today and was strongly considering the cedar lol). Also thanks for the bit on air circulation over humidity I'll stick with the screened sides.
Take care
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04-23-2011, 06:53 PM
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Chasing Crickets
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Middletown, OH
Posts: 35
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yes, after you apply the cement, and let it dry, then you soak whole thing in the water/vinegar, this is why if you can, make the background outside of the cage
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04-23-2011, 09:18 PM
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Catching the Bug
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Mid-West, USA
Posts: 141
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honestly, i would epoxy the inside of the vivarium if it's going to be constructed out of wood. there's a decent amount of moisture going into a crestie's cage each day with mistings & waterings of live plants (if you choose to have live plants), and the last thing you want after puting your time and money into this is deal with water damage.
sounds like some grand plans. i gotta warn you, this is exactly how i got into the hobby. i got my girlfriend a leopard gecko for her birthday one year because she had a friend who had one in the past and she always wanted one. i didn't know alot about keeping geckos. now i have three leos, a new crestie, with plans to acquire more cresties, a dubia colony in the closet, and three big tanks in the living room. prolly dumped a good 2 grand into the hobby. but, building the tanks is immensely fun, challenging, and rewarding. and the geckos have become a part of our little "family" that i couldn't imagine w/o them.
__________________
0.1.0 Leopard Gecko: Elvis (she's gender-confused)
0.3.0 Crested Gecko: Eros, Nyx, & Athena
2.0.0 Domestic Medium/Short-hair Cats: Loki & Thor
0.1.0 TeaCup Chihuahua: Dinky
0.1.0 Old English Bulldog: Maggie-Bear
0.1.0 Human Consort: Amy
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04-25-2011, 03:37 PM
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Vive Newbie
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4
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Fallenangelfyre thanks, I had planned to seal the wood just wasn't sure what I was going to use of course its back to worrying about toxicity. Thanks for the warning too, I already see myself headed down that road as well.
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04-25-2011, 07:48 PM
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Catching the Bug
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Mid-West, USA
Posts: 141
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polyurethane, epoxy, boat varnish- it's all completely inert once cured & had a good couple weeks airing out (does not pose a toxic threat to flora/fauna once cured & aired). you just want to make sure you're going to get it completely water-tight. otherwise you will have problems (big & small) down the road. believe me- lot's of planning & research before you start building, get halfway in and go "sh*t! i never thought of that, now i have to tear it apart & start over!"
another thing you want to plan for that will save you lots of headache down the road is how to remove excess water that builds up over time in the bottom of the tank. you could put an upright pvc pipe into the backround to siphon water out (easiest & cheapest), though the best IMHO would be to put some bulkhead drains into the bottom. and this would be much easier than most of us who have to drill glass to accomplish this for you- because you're building out of wood.
another thing i thought of for you- is an alternate way to waterproof- line the inside with glass or acrylic. glass is actually quite cheap at a glazier and once you get it cut to size it is very easy to silicone together to make a water-tight enclosure.
again- good luck & beware
__________________
0.1.0 Leopard Gecko: Elvis (she's gender-confused)
0.3.0 Crested Gecko: Eros, Nyx, & Athena
2.0.0 Domestic Medium/Short-hair Cats: Loki & Thor
0.1.0 TeaCup Chihuahua: Dinky
0.1.0 Old English Bulldog: Maggie-Bear
0.1.0 Human Consort: Amy
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04-29-2011, 10:55 AM
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Vive Newbie
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4
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Ok thanks for all the info I never really thought about removing excess water too much, but I like the idea of using PVC.
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04-30-2011, 01:28 AM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 673
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Here is a link you may find helpful.
GARF'S REEF AQUARIUM CONSTRUCTION - 140 GALLON AQUARIUM
I have found these plans very customizable with a little imagination. They use them for growing coral reefs so the materials are all super non toxic and water safe.
__________________
In all things of nature there is something of the marvelous.
Aristotle
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